How to Make an Orchid Tree

 Caring
Mar 012009
 

An orchid tree is a variation on mounting orchids, except you’re putting many orchids on a branch or branches to give it a completely natural look. The concept can be used in those areas of the country where orchids can be grown outdoors most of the year, but must be protected from a few frosts during the winter months; or if you are lucky enough to have a large enough greenhouse, brought inside during the colder winter months. It would also work wonderfully under lights in an alcove or under stairs area that proves to be a difficult place to decorate.
To start out, you must select the base for your tree, or build a wire mesh and cover it with cork. Remember that if you’re going to be moving the structure it cannot be too heavy. And you will need to make sure that it will not topple over when planted. Generally a tripod arrangement will ensure enough stability.

Attach the larger plants to the bottom for aesthetic reasons and the smallest on the upper portions. Think of the size of the branches on a tree, the largest are at the bottom and the smallest at the top. This will also provide extra weight at the bottom to balance the weight of the structure.

When choosing plants, be sure to try to pick out plants that will require similar light, temperature and humidity conditions. Depending on how you place your orchid tree, some will obviously get more light than others. Be aware of this when you start arranging the plants you wish to mount. Another factor to consider is flowering times. Do you want all your plants flowering at the same time, or several flowering at the same time throughout the year? And of course, the most fun of all, how are you going to arrange the different colors on the tree?

If possible soak the structure overnight before adding plants, otherwise wet it thoroughly with a hose. Take your plants from their pots, clip off any dead or brown roots and clean up the plants by removing dead sheaths, and back bulbs. Position the plants around the tree and if you want tie them on with a string until you’re satisfied with the arrangement. Then mount as you would any orchid on a mount with sphagnum moss attached with fishing wire against the structure. Then tie on your plant being careful not to cut into the pseudobulbs or roots. I prefer putting a bit of sphagnum on top of the roots too to provide extra moisture to the plants during hot periods. Continue mounting until all your plants are situated as you want them.

Mist thoroughly and place in a humid shaded area for two weeks to a month in order to allow the plants to accustom themselves to their new home. Mist every other day and water as you would any other mounted plant. Gradually move into a sunnier area over the course of about a week as you would for any other orchid.

The How and Why of Water

 Caring
Mar 012009
 

By Ron McHatton
AOS Director of Education January 2009
Copyright 2008 American Orchid Society

More or chids are killed by incorrect watering than by any other reason. There are two separate components to proper watering; when and how. The vast majority of orchids grown by hobby growers are epiphytes, growing on trees above the ground where the light is more plentiful. These plants are adapted to having their roots exposed to light and air so in addition to water, orchid roots need air. The central core of an epiphytic orchid root is covered with a spongy material called velamen designed to store water. When this spongy material remains wet too long, the central core suffocates and begins to rot. Once the roots begin to rot, the plant can no longer take up water properly and a whole host of problems begin. At worst, root rot will spread upward into the rhizome and cause the death of the plant. In other cases, the loss of roots prevents the plant from  absorbing sufficient water to maintain the plant in good condition and the leaves will take on a wrinkled appearance. Unfortunately, the symptoms of over-watering and under-watering are superficially similar and the tendency is to increase watering rather than inspect the roots.  Overwatered roots will be brown and mushy while those on under-watered plants will be white or gray and obviously dry. Let’s look first at when to water.

When do I water?
Orchids should be watered just as they dry out. This rule applies to all orchids with slight variations depending on whether your plant has pseudobulbs (thickened stems that are designed to store water) or not. Orchids such as cattleyas and oncidiums should be allowed to just dry completely between waterings while orchids such as phalaenopsis and vandas that have no water storage organs should be watered just before dryness occurs. For vandas, this may mean daily watering during the warm summer months. Vandas and ascocendas that are properly
watered will have actively growing root tips at all times. If the root tips on your plants dry up and seal over, you are not watering often enough. There’s unfortunately no magic formula; i.e., water a plant in a 6” pot every 7 days and you’ll be trouble free. This is because your growing area is different from anyone else’s. Humidity, air movement, potting medium (type and age) and light levels all play a role. There are several ways to determine when a potted orchid is almost dry: 1) the surface of the potting mix will appear dry; 2) dry pots will feel lighter when lifted; 3) clay pots feel dry; 4) a wooden stake or skewer inserted into the potting mix will come out almost dry. If in doubt, a finger inserted into the potting mix is perhaps the best tool to determine the moisture content of the potting mix. It will cause no harm to the plant. And remember, fresh potting mix will always dry out faster than the old medium.

How do I water?
How to water is just as important to proper culture as when to water. When orchids are watered, they should be watered copiously. Water should be provided until it runs freely from the drainage holes. This serves several functions. First, thorough, copious watering is necessary to soak the potting medium. In addition, thorough watering helps to flush away the salts that naturally accumulate in the potting medium from the dissolved salts in our water supplies and the fertilizers applied for good growth. Also, this is your opportunity to examine how the potting mix behaves. If you cannot pour water rapidly through the pot, the potting mix is too dense and you run the risk of starving the roots for air. If you see finely divided material that looks like coffee grounds in the water coming from the drainage holes, your potting mix is breaking down and it’s time to repot into fresh medium. At a minimum, try to thoroughly water your plants at least once a month. Finally a couple of notes about mounted plants and those like vandas that are grown in baskets without additional potting medium. First, avoid dunking these plants in buckets of water. This practice very easily spreads diseases. If one plant has a disease, all those dunked in the same bucket of water will have been exposed as well. Also, two short waterings a few minutes apart are much more effective than one long watering. Once water runs off the plant, the roots will have absorbed essentially all they can at that time and excess water simply runs off to the ground. The proper technique is to water your plants and then a few minutes later water them again, always beginning with the first plant you watered. This allows time for the roots of the last plant watered to finish absorbing water before you wet them again. Roots that are completely saturated will be a solid color while those that are not will appear mottled.

Make Your Blooms Last

 Caring
Feb 012009
 

The blooms of your orchids will stay fresh longer if you follow these simple steps…..

Do not let water stagnate in between their leaves as it promotes bacterial rot that may kill plants (Phalaenopsis). Do not let plants sit in water as their roots will rot and the plats will die.

Do not water them too often. Most orchid plants need watering on a regular basis, depending upon the climate. When placed in decorative containers such as baskets and china, they take longer to dry out so stretch your watering intervals by a few days. Water your plants properly.

Do not expose them to drafts, however faint, or forced air heat, or air conditioners. Such drafts will dry buds and flowers in no time.

Do not place them next to or on top of heat sources (radiators, refrigerators, etc.) at these heat sources continuously dry the air around them and this will desiccate your plants.

Do not expose them to direct sun in the middle of the day. Leaves will burn and flowers will wilt. Maintain reasonable temperatures: daytime temperatures from 65 degrees to 85 degrees at nighttime temperatures from 50 degrees to 65 degrees. If your air is dry, mist leaves and buds once or twice a day.

Why Won’t It Bloom?

 Caring
Dec 012008
 

The usual reason is lack of light. Many new growers take the term ‘houseplant’ a bit too literally and presume that the phal will need about the same light that a foliage houseplant needs…and then despair at the lack of flowers. Fact is, if the phal is given too little light, it will vegetate very nicely and produce pretty, dark-green leaves…and nothing else.

Asking the new grower to guess at what 10% of full sunlight looks like is a bit much, but a reasonably close estimate can save you a whole growing season that may be needed to show that a given spot has not enough light for the plant to flower. One thing I really fret about is that some new growers will give up during that first season and try something else.

So, the guess at what is enough light to make a phal flower is an important guess. If you have to guess on the wrong side of 10% of full sunlight — which is what the phals need to bloom — guess on the high side.

Let me qualify that comment: ‘A little on the high side’.

A little high gets you –
yellow-green leaves and small flowers

A lot high get you –
a sunburned or even a dead plant

A little on the low side gets you –
sparse, but large flowers

A lot on the low side gets you –
no flowers, but a pretty, green plant

The phals will tolerate considerable overdosage of light before getting into any trouble. I’d rather see new growers overdose them a little than underdose them, because at least they see the flowers.

I have never known a new grower to overdose a phal on light except by leaving them in direct sunlight and heat in a parked car with the windows rolled up. When that happens, ZAP! The plant is dead.

There are a few other reasons why a phalaenopsis orchid will not bloom given the other recommended cultural conditions, but they are infrequent. Flower spikes may sometime fold and collapse when splashed with cold water in winter. Immaturity or poor health of the plant, of course, will usually deter flowering. Sometimes a plant will flower while it is in bad health as an act of desperation…to keep the species alive. It’s a pathetic sight; the poor thing trying to carry on by flowering even when the flowering may rob it is strength it needs to stay alive. I’ts a jungle out there.

Don’t let it happen to your plants. If a sick plant throws a flower spike, cut it off at the base and nurse the plant back to health before allowing it to flower again.

Orchid Growing Tips #24

 Caring
Dec 012008
 

by Susan Taylor
Originally published in BellaOnline

Change your watering and fertilizing schedule
Fall and winter is a time to watch your watering schedule as your plants will be using less water and growing more slowly with reduced temperatures. In conjunction with this slowing down, you will want to reduce your fertilizing. Instead of a twice a week watering schedule, you may need to water only every 10 days. One of the moisture meters available can be very helpful in determining whether you need to water, or use the “pick up the pot” method to see if the plants are dry. Continue with a every-other-watering fertilizing.

Consider additional lighting
Windowsill growers in the northern latitudes should monitor how many hours of light your orchids are getting and if it is under about 10 hours, consider adding lighting fixtures to extend the hours to encourage flowering.

Watch out for insect infestations
As the weather turns cooler, insects will find your orchid plants and take up residency. When you bring in plants that have lived outdoors, be sure to dunk them in a solution of 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap or insecticidal soap in a gallon of water. It’s best of you can dunk them entirely to catch any bugs on the plant itself. Allow to drain thoroughly.

Try to give your orchids a cooler night
Many orchids need a 10 degree, or 21 degree Fahrenheit, drop in termperature at night in order to grow properly. For windowsill growers this is a real challenge, but in the fall when it is extremely important, Mother Nature provides a hand. If possible allow the cooler night time temperatures from outside cool your growing area. Be sure that freezing temperatures do not get to your plants or that your plant leaves are not touching cold glass.

Use bubble wrap on your glass
In order to keep your plants from getting frozen leaves, be sure to keep them from touching cold window panes during winter weather. One idea I have recently seen recommends using commercial bubble wrap to cover your windows as extra insulation as well as providing protection for leaves close to glass. Many growers in very cold climates even use this idea in their greenhouses to add insulation and save on heating costs.

Tester pots
If you have trouble determining when to water, put a “tester pot” with your orchids and use it to determine when the media in your pots is dry. A tester pot is a pot without any plant in it filled with the same media that you use with your plants. Water the pot at the same time you do your other plants. When you want to see if the plants need water simply dump out the tester pot and feel the media in the middle of the pot to see if it is still damp. When it’s dry, then you know to water.

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